When thinking of the title Vogue an American most likely thinks of two things. The first thing being Madonna's song "Vogue" from the year 1990 and the other being the world famous Conde Nast publication- Vogue magazine. Both of these things are related to fashion but are unrelated despite the popular assumption that Madonna's song was written about the magazine itself.
Madonna's "Vogue" is referring the type of dancing popular in the underground club scene called Voguing. Madonna sings about striking a pose, letting loose on the dance floor, and about finding beauty in what you choose. She states in the song "you're a superstar thats what you are," and even though the song isn't about the magazine it still reflects some of the intentions that the magazine has for its primary audience.
Moving on from Madonna's Vogue, may I now direct you to the main reason I am writing this post- the magazine Vogue.
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| Vogue cover illustration from 1902 |
The first issue of Vogue was released in 1892 in America, and later in 1909 was acquired by Conde Nast Publishers. Under the new publication the magazine subsequently expanded its page numbers as well as geared its main focus towards women. During the first world war in 1916, it was impossible to deliver the magazine internationally and so the printing was started in England which led to the start of French Vogue in 1920. Throughout this time France had been the leading power in the fashion industry but because if Vogue and its popularity, America was quickly competing and taking the lead power in the fashion industry over France.
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Vogue, September 1, 1926
Illustrated by Eduardo Garcia Benito
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Finally in 1932 Vogue placed a color photograph on its cover for the first time in history shot by Edward Steichen. The addition of the photograph into the printed magazine was a breakthrough for the company and the covers from there on started featured photographs taken by some of the most famous photographers in the world and my inspiration for photography today such as Irving Penn, Richard Avedon, Guy Burden, Norman Parkinson, Helmut Newton and Peter Lindberg.
| first Vogue cover featuring a color photograph replacing the fashion drawings as mentioned above |
Another important Photographer for the company was Baron Adolphe Meyer who was the first to sign an official contract as an on staff photographer in 1914. Some of the photographers I mentioned above were also contracted as well.
| ANN ANDREWS BY BARON DE MEYER, VOGUE, 1919 |
In the 1960s Vogue transitioned into leadership under the great Diana Vreeland who had previously been editor and chief to Harpers Bazaar magazine. Vreeland has become to be known as a symbol of a new era for the company. She can be characterized as being creative, liberated and sexy.
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Vogue, February 1, 1964
Photographed by Bert Stern
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Pictured: Nadja, New York, 1995
Photo: Patrick Demarchelier
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Another big leap for Vogues leadership history was in 1988 when current editor Anna Wintour became the editor and chief. Her character was depicted in the 2006 film The Devil Wears Prada and although in the movie she appears in human at times it was her talent, will and efficiency that led Vogue to becoming the number 1 fashion magazine in the world. Since then the magazine continues to reign over the rest.
| Photographed by Irving Penn, Vogue, April 1, 1950 one of my favorite Vogue covers of all time, it was even my phone background for a while |
| Pictured: Lisa Fonssagrives on the Eiffel Tower, Paris, 1939. © The Estate of Erwin Blumenfeld (one of the photos we talked about in class together) |
| JEAN SHRIMPTON BY RICHARD AVEDON, JANUARY 1970. PUBLISHED: VOGUE, MARCH 1970. |
In the years since Anna Wintour has continued to expand and redefine the magazine for the better. One of her most shocking but also smart moves she made was to bring movie stars and singers to the covers of Vogue even though before the covers had featured only models. She acquired quite a bit of criticism when she featured Madonna on the cover in 1989 but she kept it up and during the nineties many of the most sought after and beautiful faces in hollywood graced the covers of Vogue.
| Madonna in 1989 on the cover |
Vogues influence on American as well as international society has reached incredible lengths throughout the past 25 years under Wintours reign and I expect it to become even bigger and more powerful in the years to come. As she said in 2011 "Vogue is like Nike or Coca-Cola- this huge global brand. I want to enhance it, I want to protect it, and I want it to be part of the conversation."
| Anna Wintour Photograph by Steve Eichner. Published in WWD, May 2, 2011. |
I can't wait to see what Vogue brings in the future. Until next time!
Emily
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